Rips or holes larger than one inch in the air chambers or within two inches of a seam should be repaired with internal and external patches by a professional repair technician at a certified repair facility. A quick patch repair may solve your problem for a short period of time, but I recommend you have it redone by a professional.
Also I would recommend that major repairs and the addition of large accessories such as oar locks, seating or towing rings be done by a professional repair technician at a certified repair facility. If your boat is still under warranty and you are experiencing a seam failure, the wooden transom separating from the molded transom flanges or tubeset, or the fabric is turning yellow and sticky, call your dealer. Defective seams or sticky fabric can result in complete warranty coverage and you may receive a new boat for free or at a small fee.
If you you would like to attempt a small repair, here are some instructions:
Relative humidity must be less than 70%, preferably as low as 40%.
Temperature 64° to 77°F.
Never fiddle around with these. Bond strength drops very rapidly with heat or high humidity. Take your boat indoors. Don't even think about trying to glue on the dock or near the water or in direct sunlight. Professionals use a specially built, climate controlled room, and still don't attempt to work on a rainy day.
Note: You are using a two-part contact cement. The solvents in the glue must evaporate before assembly. When ready to assemble parts, the glue must not be tacky at all to the finger. It must not have spots of whitish glaze. If so, you may have spread the glue too thick, not waited long enough between coats, or a sudden drop in temperature or gust of humid air may have occurred. Someone may have opened the door, or you may have leaned too close and breathed on it. Plan to stay in the room until finished.
General Tips
Mark out your patch or accessory perimeter where it will be glued on. Then use masking tape to tape off the area to avoid getting MEK or glue on other parts of your boat during the repair process. This takes a little time but is well worth it in the end as the glue is hard to get off the boat after it dries and looks very messy when it dries and goes brown from the sun.
If using small cans ( 1/4 L) mix the entire can with the dose of accelerator. Inaccurate measurement will weaken the glue. Once opened the accelerator cannot be kept. Do not try to save it. The quality of your final bond depends on it.
Apply glue with a paint or glue brush with the bristles cut short (1/2 to 3/4") so they are stiff. It must be natural hair, bound in metal not plastic, preferably with wooden or metal handle. Careful not to get glue on areas of your boat besides the repair area.
Old glue must be completely removed, solvent, sandpaper, scraping, grinding with a dremel tool. Glue will not stick to old glue. Clean it off thoroughly. Be careful not to burn or melt the fabric if using a Dremel tool. Constant motion with the tool will prevent this problem.
If your boat has ever been protected with ArmorAll or another silicone or petroleum based product, you may have great difficulty getting a bond. Wipe the repair area well with MEK, follow the gluing instructions closely and hope for the best.
Pinhole size leaks in most Hypalonfabric or PVC boats sometimes may be repaired simply by use of either Seam Seal or Air Seal liquids. You might be able to avoid a patch on the boat.
To find tiny leaks, take floor boards out, inflate boat hard. Put some liquid detergent in a bucket of water and with rag or big wash brush, scrub it all over boat. Keep watch for elusive, tiny bubbles. When you find the first leak, keep looking. You might as well fix them all at the same time. Remember, the number one cause of slow leaks is a poorly seated valve. Unscrew, clean. Make sure little rubber O-rings are good. They are the cheapest repair possible.
If patching, cut patches 1 to 2 " larger than tear in each direction and round the corners (a quarter makes a good template for the edges). Little one inch circles pasted over a pin hole won't last. Try to get the same fabric used by the manufacturer for your boat. The inside and outside surface may be different. If you can't match color, sometimes a cleverly shaped patch in contrasting color can be made to look like decoration instead of a Band-Aid. such as a arrow, lightning bolt, even a new D ring if in right spot. Professionals often put one on each side to look like they came with the boat.
Inflate boat to apply accessories. Deflate to patch air leaks, even if very small. Air pressure will bubble the patch before glue sets. Use our inflatable boat restoration paint if your boat is old looking, looks faded, is sticky or generally looks old and ugly.
Do Not Smoke, Glues and solvents are flammable. No open flames.
Use in a well ventilated area. Fumes can be overwhelming. A carbon filter respirator is recommended. MEK solvent smells, but is relatively safe. It is recommended that you not use Toluene, the factories do but it is very dangerous.
Accelerator (small bottle) is toxic. If spilled on on your skin WASH IMMEDIATELY with soap and water. If in your eyes, IMMEDIATELY FLUSH WITH WATER for at least 2 minutes and consult a physician. (Accelerator is an isocyanate based product.) Always wear safety gear as recommended by the manufacturer of glue, solvent, or accelerator.
Showing posts with label Boating. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Boating. Show all posts
Friday, July 10, 2009
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Inflatable Boat Maintenance
The buoyancy tube of your inflatable boat is made of fabric using plastomer PVC or neoprene/hypalon rubber.
Clean it every month, but recommended seasonally before storing for the winter.
NEVER USE STRONG DETERGENTS (ACID, TRICHLORETHYLENE, MINERAL SPIRIT) OR SILICONE-BASED PRODUCTS TO CLEAN YOUR BOAT.
Inflate the buoyancy tube.
Open the self bailer and wash the boat with a hose to remove sand and other particles.
Remove the floor or floorboards where applicable.
Clean all grime, stains, etc.
Check all inflatable sections for leaks, with foamy soap and water.
Rinse with fresh water and dry thoroughly.
NEVER USE HIGH PRESSURE CLEANING EQUIPMENT. THIS MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO YOUR BOAT.
When deflating
Check that the valves and gaskets are clean and not damaged.
Check to ensure the self bailer is not clogged.
DROP IN PRESSURE:
A 20% air pressure loss in a 24 hours period is normal.
Only address more serious air leakages, such as .25 PSI in 5 hours
If you do have a problem with an air leakage:
First, check all valves are intact and in closed position (nothing clogging the valve).
Storage
When storing your boat, keep it in a clean and dry place that is not affected from major variations in temperature and other damaging environmental factors. You may store the boat deflated and rolled up or lightly inflated. If you own an inflatable with a removable tubeset, take it off for easier, cleaning. You may store the tubeset on or off the boat.
FOR LONG TERM STORAGE IN THE SUN (ESPECIALLY IN TROPICAL REGIONS), PROTECT YOUR BOAT WITH A COVER.
RODENTS CHEW ON FABRIC INCLUDING INFLATABLE BOAT MATERIAL. STORE AWAY FROM RODENTS (RATS AND MICE).
Clean it every month, but recommended seasonally before storing for the winter.
NEVER USE STRONG DETERGENTS (ACID, TRICHLORETHYLENE, MINERAL SPIRIT) OR SILICONE-BASED PRODUCTS TO CLEAN YOUR BOAT.
Inflate the buoyancy tube.
Open the self bailer and wash the boat with a hose to remove sand and other particles.
Remove the floor or floorboards where applicable.
Clean all grime, stains, etc.
Check all inflatable sections for leaks, with foamy soap and water.
Rinse with fresh water and dry thoroughly.
NEVER USE HIGH PRESSURE CLEANING EQUIPMENT. THIS MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO YOUR BOAT.
When deflating
Check that the valves and gaskets are clean and not damaged.
Check to ensure the self bailer is not clogged.
DROP IN PRESSURE:
A 20% air pressure loss in a 24 hours period is normal.
Only address more serious air leakages, such as .25 PSI in 5 hours
If you do have a problem with an air leakage:
First, check all valves are intact and in closed position (nothing clogging the valve).
Storage
When storing your boat, keep it in a clean and dry place that is not affected from major variations in temperature and other damaging environmental factors. You may store the boat deflated and rolled up or lightly inflated. If you own an inflatable with a removable tubeset, take it off for easier, cleaning. You may store the tubeset on or off the boat.
FOR LONG TERM STORAGE IN THE SUN (ESPECIALLY IN TROPICAL REGIONS), PROTECT YOUR BOAT WITH A COVER.
RODENTS CHEW ON FABRIC INCLUDING INFLATABLE BOAT MATERIAL. STORE AWAY FROM RODENTS (RATS AND MICE).
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
Boating and Kids
Educating children on radio procedures can benefit recreational boating safety in several ways. First, teach your child how to use a VHR radio properly, and should your child ever need to really use the radio, they will know how.
Proper use of nautical terminology helps, using proper terminology and radio procedure can be crucial in trusting the information the child is giving.
Basic Navigation
Nothing could be worse than providing all training, and leaving out basic navigation. All children depending on age, can be taught to read a chart, and by using landmarks, give an approximation of their location.
Making it a game, you can instill more safety values, as well as assist your child by giving them real-life experience in skills that they may not learn for several years, or only learn in a book form.
Safety Equipment
We should teach our children about the safety equipment we carry on our boats. The fire extinguisher, flares, whistles, mirrors, the radio are all items that should not be foreign to them. Remember, even though they are a child, they are a member of the crew, and while again, this is age dependent, they can be crucial to observing, and avoiding dangerous situations.
Teach your child how a fire extinguisher works. Teach them the ABC’s of fire fighting. Have them practice with an extinguisher. You may never know when this experience can come in handy, whether on the boat or in the kitchen.
Teach them about flares, the dangers and the benefits of using them properly. Teach them how to use them, when to use them, and most of all, that they are "Not a Toy".
Teach our children about whistles and mirrors, which should be attached to their PFD’s. Tell them, show them, and practice with them, not only using these pieces of safety equipment, but man overboard drills.
Our children are never too young to learn. It is just how we go about teaching them recreational boating safety that is the difference. Make a game of each lesson. Make it enjoyable. As they get older, add more and more information, so by the time our children become teenagers, they are not only able to take the boat out (local law permitting), but are fully knowledgeable about the operation of both vessel and recreational boating safety.
The United States Coast Guard Auxiliary can help in this area. They have several programs for for children, such as Boating Fun (4 – 9 year olds), and Waypoints (10 – 12 year olds). Many of the older children (9 years old and up) take Boating Safely with their parents.
Proper use of nautical terminology helps, using proper terminology and radio procedure can be crucial in trusting the information the child is giving.
Basic Navigation
Nothing could be worse than providing all training, and leaving out basic navigation. All children depending on age, can be taught to read a chart, and by using landmarks, give an approximation of their location.
Making it a game, you can instill more safety values, as well as assist your child by giving them real-life experience in skills that they may not learn for several years, or only learn in a book form.
Safety Equipment
We should teach our children about the safety equipment we carry on our boats. The fire extinguisher, flares, whistles, mirrors, the radio are all items that should not be foreign to them. Remember, even though they are a child, they are a member of the crew, and while again, this is age dependent, they can be crucial to observing, and avoiding dangerous situations.
Teach your child how a fire extinguisher works. Teach them the ABC’s of fire fighting. Have them practice with an extinguisher. You may never know when this experience can come in handy, whether on the boat or in the kitchen.
Teach them about flares, the dangers and the benefits of using them properly. Teach them how to use them, when to use them, and most of all, that they are "Not a Toy".
Teach our children about whistles and mirrors, which should be attached to their PFD’s. Tell them, show them, and practice with them, not only using these pieces of safety equipment, but man overboard drills.
Our children are never too young to learn. It is just how we go about teaching them recreational boating safety that is the difference. Make a game of each lesson. Make it enjoyable. As they get older, add more and more information, so by the time our children become teenagers, they are not only able to take the boat out (local law permitting), but are fully knowledgeable about the operation of both vessel and recreational boating safety.
The United States Coast Guard Auxiliary can help in this area. They have several programs for for children, such as Boating Fun (4 – 9 year olds), and Waypoints (10 – 12 year olds). Many of the older children (9 years old and up) take Boating Safely with their parents.
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Know your Boat
Seamanship is simply the skill of managing a boat and encompasses: navigation, safety, boat handling, line handling, anchoring, troubleshooting engine problems, and emergency situations.
Good seamanship is to know everything about your boat. You should know your boat's construction, layout, carrying capacity, limitations, and capabilities. Be familiar with equipment and where it is stowed to the point that you can locate and operate it in the dark. You should also get to know your boat’s propulsion, electric, and power systems, and how to deal with common problems.
Operational Characteristics and Limitations
Knowing the operating characteristics and limitations of your boat is important for safe boating, and can even help reduce fuel costs. You can find this information in the boat's operating manual, including:
maximum carrying and load capacity
maximum speed and range at various speeds
maximum fuel range
maximum draft
Economical cruising speed
If possible, find out the boat's wind and sea limitations. If the operating manual doesn't state it specifically, contact the manufacturer to find out the maximum sea conditions for your boat.
Boat Nomenclature
Nomenclature is a term meaning "system of names" get to know terms for location and direction aboard your boat, its hull type, and the names of its various parts.
Boat Measurements
Length overall is the distance from the foremost part of the boat’s bow to its stern, and is expressed in feet. Length is one of the most common ways to describe a boat. Waterline length is the distance between the fore and aft parts of the boat that meet the surface of the water. The beam is the distance between the right-side hull to the left-side hull.
Good seamanship is to know everything about your boat. You should know your boat's construction, layout, carrying capacity, limitations, and capabilities. Be familiar with equipment and where it is stowed to the point that you can locate and operate it in the dark. You should also get to know your boat’s propulsion, electric, and power systems, and how to deal with common problems.
Operational Characteristics and Limitations
Knowing the operating characteristics and limitations of your boat is important for safe boating, and can even help reduce fuel costs. You can find this information in the boat's operating manual, including:
maximum carrying and load capacity
maximum speed and range at various speeds
maximum fuel range
maximum draft
Economical cruising speed
If possible, find out the boat's wind and sea limitations. If the operating manual doesn't state it specifically, contact the manufacturer to find out the maximum sea conditions for your boat.
Boat Nomenclature
Nomenclature is a term meaning "system of names" get to know terms for location and direction aboard your boat, its hull type, and the names of its various parts.
Boat Measurements
Length overall is the distance from the foremost part of the boat’s bow to its stern, and is expressed in feet. Length is one of the most common ways to describe a boat. Waterline length is the distance between the fore and aft parts of the boat that meet the surface of the water. The beam is the distance between the right-side hull to the left-side hull.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Pre-Departure Check List
Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs)
Have at least 1 approved PFD onboard for each person.
An additional throwable device is required if the vessel is more than 16 feet long.
Explain the location and use of all PFDs to passengers and crew that may be new to the vessel.
Sound Producing Devices
Have a horn capable of producing a four-second blast audible for at least 1/2 mile on board. If you use portable air horn, have a spare can of air or an alternate device.
Attach a whistle to each PFD.
Lights and Shapes
Have all navigation lights as required for your boat.
Make sure all instrument lights are working.
If you intend to engage in a recreational boating activity that requires a day-shape, have the required shapes.
Have aboard a flashlight and spare batteries.
Distress Signals
Make flares, day signals, etc., accessible and ensure they are stored in a dry location.
Carry signals at all times even if not required by the Coast Guard.
Inform the crew and passengers of their location and safety rules for proper usage.
Tools and Spares
Carry a basic toolbox with tools appropriate for your boat.
Carry a box of spares including fuel filter, light bulbs, head parts, through-hull plugs, etc.
Fuel and Oil
Top off your fuel tanks.
If you can't, have enough fuel to provide a reasonable margin of safety for your return.
Check the engine oil and coolant levels.
Fire Extinguishers
Carry at least one fire extinguisher and make sure it is accessible. Make sure you have at least the number required by Coast Guard rules.
Check to be sure mounts are secure and functional before departure.
Take the time to point out locations to passengers and crew.
Ventilation
On any powered vessel or auxiliary powered sailboat, or vessels using LPG for cooking or heat, check that all interior spaces are well ventilated before departure. If fuel smells are detected before ventilating, check after running the blowers for several minutes before starting. If odor persists, shut down the engine and look for the source of the leak.
Bilges
Check to be sure bilges are reasonably dry and that pumps are not running excessively.
Clean up any spilled oil or waste in bilges to prevent overboard discharge.
Weather Forecast
Always check the weather forecast before boating.
Have a radio on board to receive weather updates.
Battery Care
If you have a dual charging system, make sure the selector switch in the proper position.
Make sure the power is on to the entire vessel.
Have aboard spare batteries for accessories such as your handheld radio, flashlight, portable navigational aid, etc.
If the batteries are rechargeable, make sure they're charged.
Docking and Anchoring
Have at least one anchor set up and bent-on to your anchor line.
Carry two or three extra dock lines in case you encounter unusual conditions dockside.
Visually inspect the lines you use for chafe or wear.
Carry at least two fenders on-board for docking or towing if required.
Rules & Documentation
Have the ship's papers, radio license, fishing permit, etc. on board.
Have the chart or charts for the area you intend to cruise in, regardless of your level of local knowledge.
Have at least 1 approved PFD onboard for each person.
An additional throwable device is required if the vessel is more than 16 feet long.
Explain the location and use of all PFDs to passengers and crew that may be new to the vessel.
Sound Producing Devices
Have a horn capable of producing a four-second blast audible for at least 1/2 mile on board. If you use portable air horn, have a spare can of air or an alternate device.
Attach a whistle to each PFD.
Lights and Shapes
Have all navigation lights as required for your boat.
Make sure all instrument lights are working.
If you intend to engage in a recreational boating activity that requires a day-shape, have the required shapes.
Have aboard a flashlight and spare batteries.
Distress Signals
Make flares, day signals, etc., accessible and ensure they are stored in a dry location.
Carry signals at all times even if not required by the Coast Guard.
Inform the crew and passengers of their location and safety rules for proper usage.
Tools and Spares
Carry a basic toolbox with tools appropriate for your boat.
Carry a box of spares including fuel filter, light bulbs, head parts, through-hull plugs, etc.
Fuel and Oil
Top off your fuel tanks.
If you can't, have enough fuel to provide a reasonable margin of safety for your return.
Check the engine oil and coolant levels.
Fire Extinguishers
Carry at least one fire extinguisher and make sure it is accessible. Make sure you have at least the number required by Coast Guard rules.
Check to be sure mounts are secure and functional before departure.
Take the time to point out locations to passengers and crew.
Ventilation
On any powered vessel or auxiliary powered sailboat, or vessels using LPG for cooking or heat, check that all interior spaces are well ventilated before departure. If fuel smells are detected before ventilating, check after running the blowers for several minutes before starting. If odor persists, shut down the engine and look for the source of the leak.
Bilges
Check to be sure bilges are reasonably dry and that pumps are not running excessively.
Clean up any spilled oil or waste in bilges to prevent overboard discharge.
Weather Forecast
Always check the weather forecast before boating.
Have a radio on board to receive weather updates.
Battery Care
If you have a dual charging system, make sure the selector switch in the proper position.
Make sure the power is on to the entire vessel.
Have aboard spare batteries for accessories such as your handheld radio, flashlight, portable navigational aid, etc.
If the batteries are rechargeable, make sure they're charged.
Docking and Anchoring
Have at least one anchor set up and bent-on to your anchor line.
Carry two or three extra dock lines in case you encounter unusual conditions dockside.
Visually inspect the lines you use for chafe or wear.
Carry at least two fenders on-board for docking or towing if required.
Rules & Documentation
Have the ship's papers, radio license, fishing permit, etc. on board.
Have the chart or charts for the area you intend to cruise in, regardless of your level of local knowledge.
Tips on Outboard Motors
After every outing, flush out the engine. This doesn't just apply to salt water, but to fresh water also. Buy a set of "rabbit ears", two flexible rubber seals connected with a metal clamp. Slip the apparatus onto the lower unit where the water is picked up and attach a garden hose.
Start up the engine and let the water pump do the rest.
While you're flushing the motor, check the water pump to make sure it has good water flow. Carefully put your finger through the stream of water. It may be warm, but it shouldn't be hot. If the output is not strong, you may have some debris stuck in the outflow tube. Immediately shut down the engine to prevent overheating and damage. Insert a small piece of wire into the flow tube and work it back and forth. Start the engine again and check the output. If that doesn't solve the problem, you may need a new water pump.
After flushing the engine, disconnect the fuel line and allow the engine to burn all the fuel in the carburetor. Once you've finished the flushing and run the engine out of fuel, be sure to turn off the key and, if you have a battery switch, turn it off.
Take the engine cowling off and check for fuel or water leaks. If you find leaks, consult your boat mechanic.
Wipe everything down and spray with an anti-corrosive like WD 40 or Quick-lube. Be sure to lubricate all the moving parts such as the shift and throttle cables, carburetor valves, etc.
Replace the cowling and wipe it down. Keep a canvas or plastic cover on the engine between trips.
Always use fresh fuel. At the end of the season, boat motor maintenance should include draining your tanks and taking the fuel to the proper recycling authority.
Regular Maintenance
Periodically check the fuel line for cracks and worn spots.
Make sure the fuel primer bulb is not cracked and is pliable.
Make sure the fuel-line fittings seat properly and don't leak.
Check the clamps on the fuel line for rust or corrosion.
Check the fuel tanks for damage and corrosion.
Check the tank vent to make sure it aspirates properly.
Check regularly for water in the fuel.
Start up the engine and let the water pump do the rest.
While you're flushing the motor, check the water pump to make sure it has good water flow. Carefully put your finger through the stream of water. It may be warm, but it shouldn't be hot. If the output is not strong, you may have some debris stuck in the outflow tube. Immediately shut down the engine to prevent overheating and damage. Insert a small piece of wire into the flow tube and work it back and forth. Start the engine again and check the output. If that doesn't solve the problem, you may need a new water pump.
After flushing the engine, disconnect the fuel line and allow the engine to burn all the fuel in the carburetor. Once you've finished the flushing and run the engine out of fuel, be sure to turn off the key and, if you have a battery switch, turn it off.
Take the engine cowling off and check for fuel or water leaks. If you find leaks, consult your boat mechanic.
Wipe everything down and spray with an anti-corrosive like WD 40 or Quick-lube. Be sure to lubricate all the moving parts such as the shift and throttle cables, carburetor valves, etc.
Replace the cowling and wipe it down. Keep a canvas or plastic cover on the engine between trips.
Always use fresh fuel. At the end of the season, boat motor maintenance should include draining your tanks and taking the fuel to the proper recycling authority.
Regular Maintenance
Periodically check the fuel line for cracks and worn spots.
Make sure the fuel primer bulb is not cracked and is pliable.
Make sure the fuel-line fittings seat properly and don't leak.
Check the clamps on the fuel line for rust or corrosion.
Check the fuel tanks for damage and corrosion.
Check the tank vent to make sure it aspirates properly.
Check regularly for water in the fuel.
Basic Engine Drives
Below is a basic explanation of each type of drive.
1. Inboard Drives
The term drive is interchangeable with motor and engine, so an inboard drive is simply a marine engine enclosed inside the boat. With an inboard drive, the shaft, rudder and props are beneath the boat leaving the transom clear. Inboard drives can either be gas or diesel, and single or twin engines are optional. A marine V-drive engine is a modified conventional inboard drive that is placed closer to the stern of the boat than a conventional inboard drive.
2. Outboard Motors
Outboard motors are self-contained units mounted to the transom. Each has an engine, propeller, and steering control through the lower unit that acts as a rudder. Outboard motors are the most common type of boat propulsion.
3. Sterndrives
Otherwise known as the inboard / outboard marine motor, sterndrives are thought by some to be the best of both worlds. The engine is mounted inboard forward of the transom with a shaft that goes through the transom to the drive unit. Similar to the outboard lower unit, this portion of the engine has a propeller and acts as a rudder to steer the boat.
4. Surface-Piercing Drives
Surface drives are specialized drives, mostly used by high performance boats, with a propeller that "pierces" the surface of the water to provide increased thrust. They operate half in and half out of the water in the planing wake of the boat, with a propeller shaft that exits almost horizontally through the transom.
5. Jet Drives
Most often used in personal watercraft or very large boats, jet drives replace propellers to push a boat through the water using high pressure air forced out of the stern of a vessel. The water jet draws water from beneath the hull, and passes it through impellers and out a moveable nozzle that steers the boat. 6. Volvo Penta Inboard Performance System
6. Volvo Penta Inboard System
The Volvo Penta IPS is a newer drive system set up directly beneath the engines. Forward-facing propellers pull on the water beneath the boat, increasing efficiency and speed by up to 20 percent.
1. Inboard Drives
The term drive is interchangeable with motor and engine, so an inboard drive is simply a marine engine enclosed inside the boat. With an inboard drive, the shaft, rudder and props are beneath the boat leaving the transom clear. Inboard drives can either be gas or diesel, and single or twin engines are optional. A marine V-drive engine is a modified conventional inboard drive that is placed closer to the stern of the boat than a conventional inboard drive.
2. Outboard Motors
Outboard motors are self-contained units mounted to the transom. Each has an engine, propeller, and steering control through the lower unit that acts as a rudder. Outboard motors are the most common type of boat propulsion.
3. Sterndrives
Otherwise known as the inboard / outboard marine motor, sterndrives are thought by some to be the best of both worlds. The engine is mounted inboard forward of the transom with a shaft that goes through the transom to the drive unit. Similar to the outboard lower unit, this portion of the engine has a propeller and acts as a rudder to steer the boat.
4. Surface-Piercing Drives
Surface drives are specialized drives, mostly used by high performance boats, with a propeller that "pierces" the surface of the water to provide increased thrust. They operate half in and half out of the water in the planing wake of the boat, with a propeller shaft that exits almost horizontally through the transom.
5. Jet Drives
Most often used in personal watercraft or very large boats, jet drives replace propellers to push a boat through the water using high pressure air forced out of the stern of a vessel. The water jet draws water from beneath the hull, and passes it through impellers and out a moveable nozzle that steers the boat. 6. Volvo Penta Inboard Performance System
6. Volvo Penta Inboard System
The Volvo Penta IPS is a newer drive system set up directly beneath the engines. Forward-facing propellers pull on the water beneath the boat, increasing efficiency and speed by up to 20 percent.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
How to Rig your Boat
Rope, is called line when used aboard boats, is essential to outfitting your boat properly. When you shop for boating supplies and accessories, line should be at the top of your list. You will use it to tie your boat to the dock, to attach your anchor to keep your boat from drifting, to tie protective fenders when you are moored, and many uses which include, but are not limited to, knot tying, splicing.
There are many different types and sizes of lines to match its many uses. Line is classified by whether it is natural or synthetic, it's construction and size. Each type of line excels at different uses aboard a boat.
Line Construction
Line is made of either natural or synthetic fibers twisted into yarns and grouped together to form strands. To form the line, the strands are twisted, plaited or braided together to form the final product. How the lines are twisted together determines its "lay." Line can be right or left lay, and it is usually plain laid, plaited or double braided depending upon the intended use of the line.
Plain laid line is made of three strands twisted to the left or the right, but the most plain laid lines are right laid. Plain laid lines are also called "three strand" line.
Plaited line is made of eight strands. Four strands are twisted to the left and four to the right which are then paired and worked like a four strand braid.
Braided line is usually made from three strands braided together and comes in different construction types such as hollow-braided, stuffer-braided, solid-braided and double braided. The most common type of braided line is double braided nylon.
The construction of the line, along with the material used to make the line, determines the strength of the line and its various uses.
Natural Line
Natural fiber line is made from the organic material of plant fiber. Manila, sisal, hemp and cotton are the most common materials used to form natural fiber line. Manila, made from the fibers of the abaca plant is the strongest and most expensive of the natural fibers, and it is the most widely used.
Pros of natural line: Strong (but not as strong as synthetic), resistant to harmful sunlight UV rays and weathering, and it is resistant to abrasive surfaces.
Cons of natural line: Poor performance in load bearing applications such as towing, it is not resistant to rot, mildew and deterioration, and it has poor resistance to chemicals compared to some synthetic ropes such as polypropylene and polyethylene.
Synthetic Line
Synthetic line is constructed using man-made materials, and is considerably different than natural fiber line. Nylon, dacron, polyethylene and polypropylene are the main types of synthetic fiber line used aboard boats.
Nylon is the most commonly used synthetic line because of its great strength, elasticity and resistance to weather. It is constructed in many ways, making it a versatile choice aboard a boat. Polypropylene line is also widely used because of its strength and ability to float.
Pros of synthetic line: very strong, has excellent resistance to rot, mildew and deterioration, and it is extremely resistant to harmful sunlight U.V. rays and weathering. Another pro of synthetic line is its elasticity in applications where that is an important factor.
Cons of synthetic line: slips much easier than natural line so it is not ideal for knots and for use with deck fittings, its elasticity can be dangerous if it parts during a load bearing operation such as towing, and it is susceptible to chafing from rough surfaces.
Double Braided Nylon
Double braided nylon is constructed using only synthetic line, but because of its unique properties I included it here. Double braid, as it is called for short, is two hollow-braided ropes, one inside of the other with a braided core compressed and held in place by a tightly braided cover. This unique construction provides superior strength, 50% of which comes from the core.
Pros of double braided nylon line: Its extreme strength and elasticity make it ideal for load bearing applications, it is also very resistant to rot, mildew, and deterioration, very resistant to harmful sunlight UV rays and weathering, and it resistant to abrasion.
Cons of double braided nylon line: because it stretches, snap back is a dangerous possibility, and because it is a synthetic line, it slips easier than natural fiber line and doesn't hold knots as well.
A properly outfitted boat should have at least six dock lines on hand. Two (each) bow and stern lines, and two spring lines. The length of the lines depends upon how and where you moor your boat. Some boaters have custom made lines that are measured specifically for their berthing area, however, you should have designated bow and stern lines that are approximately two-thirds the length of your boat, and spring lines that are the full length for when you moor at unfamiliar places.
When choosing line for your fenders, anchor and mooring lines, consider using natural fiber, three strand line. The reason is that natural fiber line will hold better on your deck and dock fittings, and will also hold your fenders better when they are tied off to the side of your boat. If you choose natural fiber line for these applications, you will have to inspect and replace it more often because it is not as resistant to the elements, however the trade off is that natural line is less expensive than synthetic. Many boaters use synthetic fiber line for their mooring and anchor lines too.
Another type of line to have your vessel is polypropylene line. This line is great to attach a life ring or other floatation device because it usually comes in bright colors and it floats. This line is also used for skiing, wake boarding and tubing.
If you have the storage, you can never have too much line. Besides designated dock lines, consider varying lengths and sizes of lines to have aboard for practical or emergency use, or to just lend to someone in need. You may want to mix synthetic with natural fiber line as well.
What Size of Line to Use for Your Boat
For designated dock lines, the size of your line is determined by its diameter and depends on the size and weight of your boat.
The following is a guide for Line Diameter:
Boats under 20 feet = 3/8"
Boats 20 to 30 feet = 1/2"
Boats 30 to 40 feet = 5/8"
Boats 40 to 60 feet = 3/4"
\
Boats over 60 feet = 1"
There are many different types and sizes of lines to match its many uses. Line is classified by whether it is natural or synthetic, it's construction and size. Each type of line excels at different uses aboard a boat.
Line Construction
Line is made of either natural or synthetic fibers twisted into yarns and grouped together to form strands. To form the line, the strands are twisted, plaited or braided together to form the final product. How the lines are twisted together determines its "lay." Line can be right or left lay, and it is usually plain laid, plaited or double braided depending upon the intended use of the line.
Plain laid line is made of three strands twisted to the left or the right, but the most plain laid lines are right laid. Plain laid lines are also called "three strand" line.
Plaited line is made of eight strands. Four strands are twisted to the left and four to the right which are then paired and worked like a four strand braid.
Braided line is usually made from three strands braided together and comes in different construction types such as hollow-braided, stuffer-braided, solid-braided and double braided. The most common type of braided line is double braided nylon.
The construction of the line, along with the material used to make the line, determines the strength of the line and its various uses.
Natural Line
Natural fiber line is made from the organic material of plant fiber. Manila, sisal, hemp and cotton are the most common materials used to form natural fiber line. Manila, made from the fibers of the abaca plant is the strongest and most expensive of the natural fibers, and it is the most widely used.
Pros of natural line: Strong (but not as strong as synthetic), resistant to harmful sunlight UV rays and weathering, and it is resistant to abrasive surfaces.
Cons of natural line: Poor performance in load bearing applications such as towing, it is not resistant to rot, mildew and deterioration, and it has poor resistance to chemicals compared to some synthetic ropes such as polypropylene and polyethylene.
Synthetic Line
Synthetic line is constructed using man-made materials, and is considerably different than natural fiber line. Nylon, dacron, polyethylene and polypropylene are the main types of synthetic fiber line used aboard boats.
Nylon is the most commonly used synthetic line because of its great strength, elasticity and resistance to weather. It is constructed in many ways, making it a versatile choice aboard a boat. Polypropylene line is also widely used because of its strength and ability to float.
Pros of synthetic line: very strong, has excellent resistance to rot, mildew and deterioration, and it is extremely resistant to harmful sunlight U.V. rays and weathering. Another pro of synthetic line is its elasticity in applications where that is an important factor.
Cons of synthetic line: slips much easier than natural line so it is not ideal for knots and for use with deck fittings, its elasticity can be dangerous if it parts during a load bearing operation such as towing, and it is susceptible to chafing from rough surfaces.
Double Braided Nylon
Double braided nylon is constructed using only synthetic line, but because of its unique properties I included it here. Double braid, as it is called for short, is two hollow-braided ropes, one inside of the other with a braided core compressed and held in place by a tightly braided cover. This unique construction provides superior strength, 50% of which comes from the core.
Pros of double braided nylon line: Its extreme strength and elasticity make it ideal for load bearing applications, it is also very resistant to rot, mildew, and deterioration, very resistant to harmful sunlight UV rays and weathering, and it resistant to abrasion.
Cons of double braided nylon line: because it stretches, snap back is a dangerous possibility, and because it is a synthetic line, it slips easier than natural fiber line and doesn't hold knots as well.
A properly outfitted boat should have at least six dock lines on hand. Two (each) bow and stern lines, and two spring lines. The length of the lines depends upon how and where you moor your boat. Some boaters have custom made lines that are measured specifically for their berthing area, however, you should have designated bow and stern lines that are approximately two-thirds the length of your boat, and spring lines that are the full length for when you moor at unfamiliar places.
When choosing line for your fenders, anchor and mooring lines, consider using natural fiber, three strand line. The reason is that natural fiber line will hold better on your deck and dock fittings, and will also hold your fenders better when they are tied off to the side of your boat. If you choose natural fiber line for these applications, you will have to inspect and replace it more often because it is not as resistant to the elements, however the trade off is that natural line is less expensive than synthetic. Many boaters use synthetic fiber line for their mooring and anchor lines too.
Another type of line to have your vessel is polypropylene line. This line is great to attach a life ring or other floatation device because it usually comes in bright colors and it floats. This line is also used for skiing, wake boarding and tubing.
If you have the storage, you can never have too much line. Besides designated dock lines, consider varying lengths and sizes of lines to have aboard for practical or emergency use, or to just lend to someone in need. You may want to mix synthetic with natural fiber line as well.
What Size of Line to Use for Your Boat
For designated dock lines, the size of your line is determined by its diameter and depends on the size and weight of your boat.
The following is a guide for Line Diameter:
Boats under 20 feet = 3/8"
Boats 20 to 30 feet = 1/2"
Boats 30 to 40 feet = 5/8"
Boats 40 to 60 feet = 3/4"
\
Boats over 60 feet = 1"
How to Plot a Course on a Nautical Chart
Using a parallel rulers or triangles, draw a straight line from your departure point to your destination, or the first turn in your course. Draw as many course lines as you need to complete your trip.
Lay one edge of the parallel rulers along the line you drew. Walk it to the nearest compass rose on the chart until the edge intersects the crossed lines at the center.
Determine your magnetic bearing by reading where the course line intersects with the inside degree circle. Write this course on your chart above the plotted line in degrees magnetic (Example: C 240° M). Do this for each course line on your chart.
Determine the distance of each course in nautical miles using your dividers and the distance scale on the top or bottom of the chart or the latitude scale.This is done by putting one end of the dividers on your start point, and the other end at your stop point or turn. Then, without moving the dividers, place them on the nautical mile scale and read the distance. Do this for each course line you, and write the distance on your chart below the course line (Example: 3.5 NM).
Calculate the amount of time it will take to run each course by first determining your speed in knots based upon your normal cruising speed and current conditions. Write this on the top of your course line next to the bearing (Example: 10 Kts).
Continue to calculate the amount of time it will take to run each course by multiplying the distance of the course times 60. Then divide that number by your speed in knots. The result is the amount of time in minutes and seconds it will take to complete the course line you plotted. Do this for each course.
At the start point of your course, come up to the determined speed and point your boat in the direction you plotted on your chart, ensuring that you continually keep the magnetic compass heading. Run a steady course and speed for the amount of time you calculated for your first course. When the time is up, if you plotted another course, turn and steady the boat on the next compass heading until you reach your destination.
Here are some things you will need:
Be sure to plot the course in adequate water depth.
Plot the course using buoys, lights, and other aids to navigation that show safe navigation areas.
Always deviate from your plotted course to avoid unsafe conditions or a collision.
Purchase a nautical chart for your area
Parallel rulers or Triangles
Dividers
No. 2 Pencil
Lay one edge of the parallel rulers along the line you drew. Walk it to the nearest compass rose on the chart until the edge intersects the crossed lines at the center.
Determine your magnetic bearing by reading where the course line intersects with the inside degree circle. Write this course on your chart above the plotted line in degrees magnetic (Example: C 240° M). Do this for each course line on your chart.
Determine the distance of each course in nautical miles using your dividers and the distance scale on the top or bottom of the chart or the latitude scale.This is done by putting one end of the dividers on your start point, and the other end at your stop point or turn. Then, without moving the dividers, place them on the nautical mile scale and read the distance. Do this for each course line you, and write the distance on your chart below the course line (Example: 3.5 NM).
Calculate the amount of time it will take to run each course by first determining your speed in knots based upon your normal cruising speed and current conditions. Write this on the top of your course line next to the bearing (Example: 10 Kts).
Continue to calculate the amount of time it will take to run each course by multiplying the distance of the course times 60. Then divide that number by your speed in knots. The result is the amount of time in minutes and seconds it will take to complete the course line you plotted. Do this for each course.
At the start point of your course, come up to the determined speed and point your boat in the direction you plotted on your chart, ensuring that you continually keep the magnetic compass heading. Run a steady course and speed for the amount of time you calculated for your first course. When the time is up, if you plotted another course, turn and steady the boat on the next compass heading until you reach your destination.
Here are some things you will need:
Be sure to plot the course in adequate water depth.
Plot the course using buoys, lights, and other aids to navigation that show safe navigation areas.
Always deviate from your plotted course to avoid unsafe conditions or a collision.
Purchase a nautical chart for your area
Parallel rulers or Triangles
Dividers
No. 2 Pencil
Monday, June 22, 2009
Small Boat Handling Tips
Knowing how your boat reactions to your commands is key to becoming an good boat handler. By practicing these techniques, you will have better boat driving skills. Always practice these tips in open water with plenty of depth and open water.
Know Your Boat's Reactions
Get to know your boat's reactions such as when you turn to port or starboard in forward and reverse. Where is the pivot-point of your boat. Knowing this will help you in mooring and unmooring. Also, how long does it take your boat to stop when you bring the throttles to neutral?
Practice Approaching an Object
Once you get a feel for your boat, drop a cushion float or life ring in the water, and then practice approaching it. Start slow at first, and then increase your speed as you gain confidence. Next, see how close you can get to the object without touching it, and if you can control whether the life ring runs along the port or starboard side.
With your approach mastered, practice stopping your boat entirely so the object is at a predetermined point, such as a cleat. Hold it steady long enough to bring the object aboard. This simulates picking up a man overboard and will also build skill in mooring your vessel. Important: When an object or person is near the stern of the boat, and the propellers, the boat's engine should be in neutral for safety.
Next, practice approaching a buoy in open water with plenty of depth and maneuvering space. Bring your vessel alongside without touching the buoy, as if you were going to moor up. As your confidence and skill increases, challenge yourself by practicing all of these techniques in various stages at sea, current and wind conditions. Eventually you'll notice your practice start to pay off when you glide easily into the dock in any mooring situation.
Know Your Boat's Reactions
Get to know your boat's reactions such as when you turn to port or starboard in forward and reverse. Where is the pivot-point of your boat. Knowing this will help you in mooring and unmooring. Also, how long does it take your boat to stop when you bring the throttles to neutral?
Practice Approaching an Object
Once you get a feel for your boat, drop a cushion float or life ring in the water, and then practice approaching it. Start slow at first, and then increase your speed as you gain confidence. Next, see how close you can get to the object without touching it, and if you can control whether the life ring runs along the port or starboard side.
With your approach mastered, practice stopping your boat entirely so the object is at a predetermined point, such as a cleat. Hold it steady long enough to bring the object aboard. This simulates picking up a man overboard and will also build skill in mooring your vessel. Important: When an object or person is near the stern of the boat, and the propellers, the boat's engine should be in neutral for safety.
Next, practice approaching a buoy in open water with plenty of depth and maneuvering space. Bring your vessel alongside without touching the buoy, as if you were going to moor up. As your confidence and skill increases, challenge yourself by practicing all of these techniques in various stages at sea, current and wind conditions. Eventually you'll notice your practice start to pay off when you glide easily into the dock in any mooring situation.
Gelcoat Maintenance for Small Boats
Good boat maintenance starts with a boat's gelcoat. The best maintenance plan will preserve the shine and integrity of your boat's gelcoat through a two-part process: cleaning and protecting. Cleaning your boat's gelcoat thoroughly by removing dirt and debris will help protect the gelcoat.
Cleaning Your Boat's Gelcoat
Use specially designed fiberglass cleaners, do not use household cleaners. Although household cleaners like Soft Scrub and other abrasive cleaners seems to be a good solution to remove tough stains, they scratch as they clean. Tiny scratches will speed oxidation and dull your boat's gelcoat quickly. Once a boat oxidizes, the hull is vulnerable to greater damage from water penetration. If your boat is showing signs of oxidation, follow a gelcoat restoration plan that includes part two of this maintenance plan, protection.
To remove dirt and mild stains, many fiberglass cleaners are available at marine supply stores. There are many types of specialty cleaners, including some with wax to protect the gelcoat. Others are a two part process of cleaning and waxing. Both come in handy during Part Two of the gelcoat maintenance plan, protecting.
Protecting Your Boat's Gelcoat
After thoroughly cleaning the gelcoat with a fiberglass cleaner the next step to protecting your boat's gelcoat is waxing. At this stage of the game, experts vary on the type of wax, but most generally agree that applying wax is essential to maintaining the integrity and shine of your boat's gelcoat.
Most fiberglass boat waxes are beeswax based, carnuba wax, silicone or a combination of the waxes. All of the products are designed to protect the gelcoat from ultraviolet rays and the marine environment. For a glossy shine you should apply two coats of a beeswax-based paste which provides a protective barrier coat. Follow the beeswax with a carnuba-based liquid wax to bring out the gloss. You will need to wash with a carnuba-based soap every week. Sound like too much work? Try using a marine polish instead, although you will sacrifice the shine that comes from carnuba wax.
Like cleaners, protectants are plentiful on the shelves of boating supply stores. The most important advice to keep in mind is apply the wax or polish to protect the gelcoat according to the directions on the package.
Other ways to protect your boat's gelcoat is to use fenders with washable covers to ward off accidental dings and scrapes. Since ultraviolet rays do the most damage, covering your boat or keeping it in a boathouse will also preserve the life of the gelcoat and keep it nice looking for years to come.
Cleaning Your Boat's Gelcoat
Use specially designed fiberglass cleaners, do not use household cleaners. Although household cleaners like Soft Scrub and other abrasive cleaners seems to be a good solution to remove tough stains, they scratch as they clean. Tiny scratches will speed oxidation and dull your boat's gelcoat quickly. Once a boat oxidizes, the hull is vulnerable to greater damage from water penetration. If your boat is showing signs of oxidation, follow a gelcoat restoration plan that includes part two of this maintenance plan, protection.
To remove dirt and mild stains, many fiberglass cleaners are available at marine supply stores. There are many types of specialty cleaners, including some with wax to protect the gelcoat. Others are a two part process of cleaning and waxing. Both come in handy during Part Two of the gelcoat maintenance plan, protecting.
Protecting Your Boat's Gelcoat
After thoroughly cleaning the gelcoat with a fiberglass cleaner the next step to protecting your boat's gelcoat is waxing. At this stage of the game, experts vary on the type of wax, but most generally agree that applying wax is essential to maintaining the integrity and shine of your boat's gelcoat.
Most fiberglass boat waxes are beeswax based, carnuba wax, silicone or a combination of the waxes. All of the products are designed to protect the gelcoat from ultraviolet rays and the marine environment. For a glossy shine you should apply two coats of a beeswax-based paste which provides a protective barrier coat. Follow the beeswax with a carnuba-based liquid wax to bring out the gloss. You will need to wash with a carnuba-based soap every week. Sound like too much work? Try using a marine polish instead, although you will sacrifice the shine that comes from carnuba wax.
Like cleaners, protectants are plentiful on the shelves of boating supply stores. The most important advice to keep in mind is apply the wax or polish to protect the gelcoat according to the directions on the package.
Other ways to protect your boat's gelcoat is to use fenders with washable covers to ward off accidental dings and scrapes. Since ultraviolet rays do the most damage, covering your boat or keeping it in a boathouse will also preserve the life of the gelcoat and keep it nice looking for years to come.
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Oxidation and Small Boats
If the surface of your boat appears dull or chalky, it is likely that your gelcoat has oxidized. Gelcoat oxidation can be remedied in most cases, but may require the hand of a professional if the oxidation is severe.
Signs of Light Oxidation
If your boat's gelcoat is slightly oxidized, most of the surface will be shiny with a few patches of dullness or cloudiness. At this stage of oxidation, a simple oxidation removing compound applied to the hull will remove oxidation and restore the shine.
Signs of Medium Oxidation
The entire surface of the boat will be dull with little reflectivity, and there will be signs of pitting. To remove the oxidation and smooth the pitting, you will need to apply a polishing compound using a circular motion with a machine buffer. The polish, similar to fine sandpaper, removes the pitted surface rather than coating it. Signs of Heavy Oxidation
The entire surface of the boat will have no reflectivity and may be chalky to the touch - pitting is obvious. At this stage of oxidation, washing, sanding and polishing are required. In most cases though, restoration will mean intense work to restore the shine and may require the attention of a professional. In the worst oxidation cases, the gelcoat may be beyond restoration and painting the boat may be the only option.
The best medicine for gelcoat oxidation is prevention. Follow a simple gelcoat maintenance plan to protect your boat's gelcoat. If you suspect your boat's gelcoat is already oxidized, try these simple tips to remove gelcoat oxidation and restore your boat's gelcoat to its original lustre.
Signs of Light Oxidation
If your boat's gelcoat is slightly oxidized, most of the surface will be shiny with a few patches of dullness or cloudiness. At this stage of oxidation, a simple oxidation removing compound applied to the hull will remove oxidation and restore the shine.
Signs of Medium Oxidation
The entire surface of the boat will be dull with little reflectivity, and there will be signs of pitting. To remove the oxidation and smooth the pitting, you will need to apply a polishing compound using a circular motion with a machine buffer. The polish, similar to fine sandpaper, removes the pitted surface rather than coating it. Signs of Heavy Oxidation
The entire surface of the boat will have no reflectivity and may be chalky to the touch - pitting is obvious. At this stage of oxidation, washing, sanding and polishing are required. In most cases though, restoration will mean intense work to restore the shine and may require the attention of a professional. In the worst oxidation cases, the gelcoat may be beyond restoration and painting the boat may be the only option.
The best medicine for gelcoat oxidation is prevention. Follow a simple gelcoat maintenance plan to protect your boat's gelcoat. If you suspect your boat's gelcoat is already oxidized, try these simple tips to remove gelcoat oxidation and restore your boat's gelcoat to its original lustre.
How to Read a Nautical Chart
To operate your boat safely, you should carry paper nautical charts on your boat. Becoming familiar with nautical chart basics will form a foundation for knowing how to read the chart symbols that show channels, water depth, buoys and lights, landmarks, obstructions, and other important information that will ensure you safe passage.
The general information block of the chart shows the chart title, usually the name of the navigable water in the covered area, the type of projection and the unit of measurement (Soundings in Feet or Fathoms). If the unit of measurement is fathoms, one fathom equals six feet.
The notes contained in the general information block give the meaning of abbreviations used on the chart, special caution notes, and reference anchorage areas. Reading these will provide important information about the waterways you navigate not found elsewhere on the chart.
Having a variety of charts will serve you well. Depending upon the location you will be navigating, different charts will be necessary because they are produced in different scales, or ratios (type of projection). Sailing charts are used for open ocean navigation. General charts are used for coastal navigation in sight of land. Coastal charts zoom in on one particular portion of a larger area and are used for navigating bays, harbors, or inland waterways. Harbor charts are used in harbors, anchorages, and small waterways. Small craft charts are special editions of conventional charts printed on lighter paper so they can be folded and stowed on your vessel.
Nautical charts can pinpoint your location using lines of latitude and longitude. The latitude scale runs vertically along both sides of the chart indicating North and South with the equator as the zero point, the longitude scale runs horizontally on the top and bottom of the chart, and indicates East and West with the Prime Meridian as the zero point.
The chart number is the number assigned to the chart located in the lower right hand corner. Use this to locate charts online and to make purchases. The edition number is located in the lower left hand corner and indicates when the chart was last updated. Corrections published in the Notice to Mariners that occur after the publish date will need to be entered by hand.
One of the most important functions of a nautical chart is to show the depth and bottom characteristics through numbers, color codes and underwater contour lines. The numbers indicate soundings and show the depth in that area at low tide.
Soundings in white indicate deep water, which is why channels and open water are typically white. Shoal water, or shallow water, is indicated by blue on the chart and should be approached with caution using a depth finder. Fathom curves are the wavy lines, and they provide a profile of the bottom.
Nautical charts have one or more compass roses printed on them. A compass rose is used to measure directions using true or magnetic bearing. True direction is printed around the outside, while magnetic is printed around the inside. Variation is the difference between true and magnetic north for the covered area. It is printed with annual change in the center of the compass rose.
The compass rose is used to plot a course when navigating using direction bearings. The last section of the chart to note is the distance scale. This is a tool used to measure distance of a specific course drawn on the chart in nautical miles, yards, or meters. The scale is usually printed at the top and bottom of the chart. The latitude and longitude scale can also be used to measure distance.
The general information block of the chart shows the chart title, usually the name of the navigable water in the covered area, the type of projection and the unit of measurement (Soundings in Feet or Fathoms). If the unit of measurement is fathoms, one fathom equals six feet.
The notes contained in the general information block give the meaning of abbreviations used on the chart, special caution notes, and reference anchorage areas. Reading these will provide important information about the waterways you navigate not found elsewhere on the chart.
Having a variety of charts will serve you well. Depending upon the location you will be navigating, different charts will be necessary because they are produced in different scales, or ratios (type of projection). Sailing charts are used for open ocean navigation. General charts are used for coastal navigation in sight of land. Coastal charts zoom in on one particular portion of a larger area and are used for navigating bays, harbors, or inland waterways. Harbor charts are used in harbors, anchorages, and small waterways. Small craft charts are special editions of conventional charts printed on lighter paper so they can be folded and stowed on your vessel.
Nautical charts can pinpoint your location using lines of latitude and longitude. The latitude scale runs vertically along both sides of the chart indicating North and South with the equator as the zero point, the longitude scale runs horizontally on the top and bottom of the chart, and indicates East and West with the Prime Meridian as the zero point.
The chart number is the number assigned to the chart located in the lower right hand corner. Use this to locate charts online and to make purchases. The edition number is located in the lower left hand corner and indicates when the chart was last updated. Corrections published in the Notice to Mariners that occur after the publish date will need to be entered by hand.
One of the most important functions of a nautical chart is to show the depth and bottom characteristics through numbers, color codes and underwater contour lines. The numbers indicate soundings and show the depth in that area at low tide.
Soundings in white indicate deep water, which is why channels and open water are typically white. Shoal water, or shallow water, is indicated by blue on the chart and should be approached with caution using a depth finder. Fathom curves are the wavy lines, and they provide a profile of the bottom.
Nautical charts have one or more compass roses printed on them. A compass rose is used to measure directions using true or magnetic bearing. True direction is printed around the outside, while magnetic is printed around the inside. Variation is the difference between true and magnetic north for the covered area. It is printed with annual change in the center of the compass rose.
The compass rose is used to plot a course when navigating using direction bearings. The last section of the chart to note is the distance scale. This is a tool used to measure distance of a specific course drawn on the chart in nautical miles, yards, or meters. The scale is usually printed at the top and bottom of the chart. The latitude and longitude scale can also be used to measure distance.
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Small Boat Emergencies
Visual Distress Signals
It is recommended that you have and know how to use visual distress signals. Carry extras. Always respond immediately to other boaters displaying a distress signal.
VHF Marine Radio
Purchase a Very High Frequency (VHF) marine radio. VHF marine radios have channels that are reserved for distress calls and are monitored continuously by the U.S. Coast Guard.
They save lives and are easy to use. They are more effective for marine communications than CB radios or mobile phones. VHF radios have more consistent reception than mobile phones.
No license is needed when used in recreational boats.
They withstand rough weather.
Boat-mounted radios are wired to the boat's battery.
The source of a VHF signal can be located so that you can be found even in fog.
Operating a VHF radio takes some basic knowledge.
When operating your boat, you must monitor Channel 16 (the distress channel). If you hear a MAYDAY call, remain silent, listen, and write down information about the boat in distress. If the USCG or other rescue authority does not respond, try to reach the USCG while traveling toward the boat. If you cannot reach the USCG, assist the other boat to the best of your ability while not placing yourself or your passengers in danger. If you have a life-threatening emergency, have everyone put on life jackets and issue a MAYDAY call on Channel 16.
Be aware that the distance for sending and receiving messages is limited by the height of the antenna and the power of the radio. Always use the one-watt setting except in an emergency or if your signal is too weak to be received clearly. Channel 16 is a calling and distress channel only and should not be used for conversation or radio checks. It can be used to make contact with another station (boat), but the communication then should move to a non-emergency channel such as 68 or 69. Penalties exist for misuse of a radio, including improper use of VHF Channel 16.
VHF Marine Radio Channels
Here are the most commonly used channels on United States waters.
Channel 6 Intership safety communications.
Channel 9 Communications between vessels (commercial and recreational), and ship to coast (calling channel in designated USCG Districts).
Channel 13 Strictly for navigational purposes by commercial, military, and recreational vessels at bridges, locks, and harbors.
Channel 16 Distress and safety calls to Coast Guard and others, and to initiate calls to other vessels; often called the "hailing" channel. (Some regions use other channels as the hailing channel. For example, the Northeast uses Channel 9.) When hailing, contact the other vessel, quickly agree to another channel, and then switch to that channel to continue conversation.
Channel 22 Communications between the Coast Guard and the maritime public, both recreational and commercial. Severe weather warnings, hazards to navigation, and other safety warnings are broadcast on this channel.
Channels 24-28 Public telephone calls (to marine operator).
Channels 68, 69, and 71 Recreational vessel radio channels and ship to coast.
Channel 70 Digital selective calling "alert channel."
Mobile Phone
If you own a mobile phone, include it as part of your standard boating gear. Keep a list of appropriate phone numbers on board. Use it to call 911 or another water rescue authority in your area. Mobile telephones may be useful for contacting local law enforcement agencies. However, they have serious limitations and should not be used as a substitute for a VHF radio.
Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB)
If you operate far from shore, you should seriously consider carrying appropriate communications gear. A satellite EPIRB is designed to quickly and reliably alert rescue forces, indicate an accurate distress position, and guide rescue units to the distress scene, even when all other communications fail.
To issue a MAYDAY call on Channel 16 of your VHF radio:
Transmit "MAYDAY, MAYDAY, MAYDAY."
Say "This is (name of vessel three times, call letters once)."
Repeat once more "MAYDAY" and your vessel's name.
Report your location.
Report the nature of your emergency.
Report the kind of assistance needed.
Report the number of people on board and condition of any injured.
Describe the vessel and its seaworthiness.
Wait for a response. If there is none, repeat the message.
It is recommended that you have and know how to use visual distress signals. Carry extras. Always respond immediately to other boaters displaying a distress signal.
VHF Marine Radio
Purchase a Very High Frequency (VHF) marine radio. VHF marine radios have channels that are reserved for distress calls and are monitored continuously by the U.S. Coast Guard.
They save lives and are easy to use. They are more effective for marine communications than CB radios or mobile phones. VHF radios have more consistent reception than mobile phones.
No license is needed when used in recreational boats.
They withstand rough weather.
Boat-mounted radios are wired to the boat's battery.
The source of a VHF signal can be located so that you can be found even in fog.
Operating a VHF radio takes some basic knowledge.
When operating your boat, you must monitor Channel 16 (the distress channel). If you hear a MAYDAY call, remain silent, listen, and write down information about the boat in distress. If the USCG or other rescue authority does not respond, try to reach the USCG while traveling toward the boat. If you cannot reach the USCG, assist the other boat to the best of your ability while not placing yourself or your passengers in danger. If you have a life-threatening emergency, have everyone put on life jackets and issue a MAYDAY call on Channel 16.
Be aware that the distance for sending and receiving messages is limited by the height of the antenna and the power of the radio. Always use the one-watt setting except in an emergency or if your signal is too weak to be received clearly. Channel 16 is a calling and distress channel only and should not be used for conversation or radio checks. It can be used to make contact with another station (boat), but the communication then should move to a non-emergency channel such as 68 or 69. Penalties exist for misuse of a radio, including improper use of VHF Channel 16.
VHF Marine Radio Channels
Here are the most commonly used channels on United States waters.
Channel 6 Intership safety communications.
Channel 9 Communications between vessels (commercial and recreational), and ship to coast (calling channel in designated USCG Districts).
Channel 13 Strictly for navigational purposes by commercial, military, and recreational vessels at bridges, locks, and harbors.
Channel 16 Distress and safety calls to Coast Guard and others, and to initiate calls to other vessels; often called the "hailing" channel. (Some regions use other channels as the hailing channel. For example, the Northeast uses Channel 9.) When hailing, contact the other vessel, quickly agree to another channel, and then switch to that channel to continue conversation.
Channel 22 Communications between the Coast Guard and the maritime public, both recreational and commercial. Severe weather warnings, hazards to navigation, and other safety warnings are broadcast on this channel.
Channels 24-28 Public telephone calls (to marine operator).
Channels 68, 69, and 71 Recreational vessel radio channels and ship to coast.
Channel 70 Digital selective calling "alert channel."
Mobile Phone
If you own a mobile phone, include it as part of your standard boating gear. Keep a list of appropriate phone numbers on board. Use it to call 911 or another water rescue authority in your area. Mobile telephones may be useful for contacting local law enforcement agencies. However, they have serious limitations and should not be used as a substitute for a VHF radio.
Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB)
If you operate far from shore, you should seriously consider carrying appropriate communications gear. A satellite EPIRB is designed to quickly and reliably alert rescue forces, indicate an accurate distress position, and guide rescue units to the distress scene, even when all other communications fail.
To issue a MAYDAY call on Channel 16 of your VHF radio:
Transmit "MAYDAY, MAYDAY, MAYDAY."
Say "This is (name of vessel three times, call letters once)."
Repeat once more "MAYDAY" and your vessel's name.
Report your location.
Report the nature of your emergency.
Report the kind of assistance needed.
Report the number of people on board and condition of any injured.
Describe the vessel and its seaworthiness.
Wait for a response. If there is none, repeat the message.
Weather for the Small Boat Operator
Tune a portable radio to a local station that gives weather updates. Listed below are the VHF-FM radio stations that broadcast National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) weather reports, which are updated each hour.
Be alert to weather conditions. Accumulating dark clouds, shifting winds, and graying skies all may be indications of danger. Track changes in barometer readings. A rising barometer indicates fair weather. A falling barometer indicates foul weather is approaching. Watch for wind direction shifts, which usually indicate a weather change. Watch for lightning and rough water. If not electrically grounded, boats (particularly sailboats) are vulnerable to lightning.
Be observant of weather from all directions, watch the weather to the west, the direction from which most bad weather arrives. Watch for fog that creates problems in inlets and bays. Typically, fog will form during the temperature changes of the early morning or evening hours and can persist for lengthy periods. Head toward the nearest safe shore if a thunderstorm is approaching.
Prepare your boat for bad weather:
Slow down, but keep enough power to maintain headway and steering.
Close all hatches, windows, and doors to reduce the chance of swamping.
Stow any unnecessary gear.
Turn on your boat's navigation lights. If there is fog, sound your fog signal.
Keep bilges free of water. Be prepared to remove water by bailing.
If there is lightning, disconnect all electrical equipment. Stay as clear of metal objects as possible.
Prepare your passengers for severe weather:
Have everyone put on a USCG approved life jacket (PFD). If a PFD is already on, make sure it is secured properly.
Have everyone put on a USCG approved life jacket (PFD). If a PFD is already on, make sure it is secured properly.
Have your passengers sit on the vessel floor close to the centerline. This is for their safety and to make the boat more stable.
Decide whether to go to shore or ride out the storm.
If possible, head for the nearest shore that is safe to approach. If already caught in a storm, it may be best to ride it out in open water rather than try to approach the shore in heavy wind and waves.
Head the bow into the waves at a 45-degree angle. PWCs should head directly into the waves.
Keep a sharp lookout for other vessels, debris, shoals, or stumps.
If the engine stops, drop a "sea anchor" on a line off the bow to keep the bow headed into the wind and reduce drifting while you ride out the storm. In an emergency, a bucket will work as a sea anchor. Without power, a powerboat usually will turn its stern to the waves and could be swamped more easily. If the sea anchor is not sufficient, anchor using your conventional anchor to prevent your boat from drifting into dangerous areas.
To determine the distance you are from an approaching thunderstorm:
Count the number of seconds between the flash of lightning and the clap of thunder.
Divide the number of seconds by five. The result is roughly the distance in miles you are from the storm.
VHF-FM Stations for NOAA Weather Reports. NOAA Weather Radio broadcasts weather forecasts and warnings using these frequencies:
162.400 MHz
162.425 MHz
162.450 MHz
162.475 MHz
162.500 MHz
162.525 MHz
162.550 MHz
Weather Warning Display Signals
Daytime Flags & Nighttime Lights: What the Signals Mean:
Small Craft Advisory: Winds in the range of 21 to 33 knots (24 to 38 mph) create conditions considered dangerous to small vessels.
Gale Warning:Winds are in the range of 34 to 47 knots (39 to 54 mph).
Storm Warning:Winds are 48 knots (55 mph) and above. If winds are associated with a tropical cyclone, this warning signals winds of 48 to 63 knots.
Hurricane Warning:Winds are 64 knots (74 mph) and above. This warning is displayed only in connection with a hurricane.
Running Aground in a Small Boat
If you run aground while traveling at a high speed, the impact not only can cause damage to your boat but also can cause injury to you and your passengers.
Knowing the local area is the best way to prevent running aground.
Become familiar with the locations of shallow water and submerged objects before you go out. Be aware that the location of shallow hazards will change as the water level rises and falls.
Learn to read a chart to determine your position and the water depth. If you run aground, make sure no one is injured and then check for leaks. If the impact did not cause a leak, follow these steps to try to get loose.
Don't put the boat in reverse. Instead, stop the engine and lift the outdrive.
Shift the weight to the area farthest away from the point of impact.
Try to shove off from the rock, bottom, or reef with a paddle or boathook.
Check to make sure your boat is not taking on water. If you can't get loose, summon help using your visual distress signals. Call for assistance using your VHF marine radio.
A vessel is grounded (runs aground) when it gets stuck on the bottom. Never assume that water is deep enough just because you are away from the shore. Also, don't presume that all shallow hazards will be marked by a danger buoy.
Knowing the local area is the best way to prevent running aground.
Become familiar with the locations of shallow water and submerged objects before you go out. Be aware that the location of shallow hazards will change as the water level rises and falls.
Learn to read a chart to determine your position and the water depth. If you run aground, make sure no one is injured and then check for leaks. If the impact did not cause a leak, follow these steps to try to get loose.
Don't put the boat in reverse. Instead, stop the engine and lift the outdrive.
Shift the weight to the area farthest away from the point of impact.
Try to shove off from the rock, bottom, or reef with a paddle or boathook.
Check to make sure your boat is not taking on water. If you can't get loose, summon help using your visual distress signals. Call for assistance using your VHF marine radio.
A vessel is grounded (runs aground) when it gets stuck on the bottom. Never assume that water is deep enough just because you are away from the shore. Also, don't presume that all shallow hazards will be marked by a danger buoy.
Fire Emergencies
How to Deal with Fire Emergencies
Don't mix the three ingredients required to ignite a fire, fuel, oxygen, and heat.
Make sure ventilation systems have been installed and are used properly.
Maintain the fuel system to avoid leaks, and keep the bilges clean.
If fire erupts on your boat:
If you are underway, stop the boat. Have everyone who is not wearing a PFD put one on in case you have to abandon your boat.
If you are underway, stop the boat. Have everyone who is not wearing a PFD put one on in case you have to abandon your boat.
Position the boat so that the fire is downwind.
If the fire is at the back of the boat, head into the wind. If the engine must be shut off, use a paddle to keep the bow into the wind.
If the fire is at the front of the boat, put the stern into the wind.
If the fire is in an engine space, shut off the fuel supply.
Aim the fire extinguisher at the base of the flames, and sweep back and forth (remember P.A.S.S.).
Never use water on a gasoline, oil, grease, or electrical fire.
Call for help with your VHF marine radio.
To prevent a fire emergency, don't mix the three ingredients that cause a fire to start:
fuel, oxygen, and heat.
To remember how to properly use a fire extinguisher, remember P.A.S.S.
P: Pull pin.
A: Aim at base of fire.
S: Squeeze handle.
S: Sweep side to side.
Friday, June 19, 2009
Capsizing a Small Boat
Capsizing is when a boat turns on its side or turns completely over. Swamping occurs when a boat stays upright and fills with water. Sometimes a person falling overboard from a boat causes the boat to capsize or swamp. Regardless, the outcome is the same, people are in the water.
To help prevent and prepare for capsizing, swamping, or someone falling overboard, follow these guidelines.
Make sure that you and your passengers are wearing life jackets while the boat is underway.
Attach the ignition safety switch lanyard to your wrist, clothes, or life jacket.
Don't allow anyone to sit on the gunwale, bow, seat backs, motor cover, or any other area not designed for seating. Also, don't let anyone sit on pedestal seats when operating at a speed greater than idle speed.
Don't overload your boat. Balance the load of all passengers and gear. Keep your center of gravity low by not allowing people to stand up or move around while underway, especially in smaller, less-stable boats. In a small boat, don't allow anyone to lean a shoulder beyond the gunwale.
Slow your boat appropriately when turning.
Don't risk boating in rough water conditions or in bad weather.
When anchoring, secure the anchor line to the bow, never to the stern.
If you should capsize or swamp your boat, or if you have fallen overboard and can't get back in, stay with the boat if possible. Your swamped boat is easier to see and will signal that you are in trouble. Also signal for help using other devices available (visual distress signals, whistle, mirror).
If you made the mistake of not wearing a life jacket, find one and put it on. If you can't put it on, hold onto it. Have your passengers do the same. Take a head count. Reach, throw, row, or go, if needed. If your boat remains afloat, try to reboard or climb onto it in order to get as much of your body out of the cold water as possible. Treading water will cause you to lose body heat faster, so try to use the boat for support. If your boat sinks or floats away, don't panic.
If you are wearing a life jacket, make sure that it is securely fastened, remain calm, and wait for help. If you aren't wearing a life jacket, look for one floating in the water or other floating items (coolers, oars or paddles, decoys, etc.) to help you stay afloat. Do your best to help your passengers find something to help them float and stay together. If you have nothing to support you, you may have to tread water or simply float. In cold water, float rather than tread to reduce hypothermia.
If someone on your boat falls overboard, you need to immediately:
Reduce speed and toss the victim a PFD, preferably a throwable type, unless you know he or she is already wearing a life jacket. Turn your boat around and slowly pull alongside the victim, approaching the victim from downwind or into the current, whichever is stronger. Stop the engine. Pull the victim on board over the stern, keeping the weight in the boat balanced, especially in small boats.
Small craft boaters need to be careful to avoid falling overboard. Falling overboard and drowning is the major cause of fatalities for small boats. To prevent falling overboard:
Keep centered in the boat with your center of gravity low in the boat. Always keep your shoulders between the gunwales. If possible, don't move about the boat. If you must move, maintain three points of contact. That is, keep both hands and one foot or both feet and one hand in contact with the boat at all times. Evenly distribute and balance the weight of persons and gear within the boat, keeping most of the weight low. It is extremely important not to overload a small boat.
Sitting on the gunwale, bow, seat backs, or any other area not designed for seating is risky behavior and can result in falling overboard. It is illegal in many states.
To help prevent and prepare for capsizing, swamping, or someone falling overboard, follow these guidelines.
Make sure that you and your passengers are wearing life jackets while the boat is underway.
Attach the ignition safety switch lanyard to your wrist, clothes, or life jacket.
Don't allow anyone to sit on the gunwale, bow, seat backs, motor cover, or any other area not designed for seating. Also, don't let anyone sit on pedestal seats when operating at a speed greater than idle speed.
Don't overload your boat. Balance the load of all passengers and gear. Keep your center of gravity low by not allowing people to stand up or move around while underway, especially in smaller, less-stable boats. In a small boat, don't allow anyone to lean a shoulder beyond the gunwale.
Slow your boat appropriately when turning.
Don't risk boating in rough water conditions or in bad weather.
When anchoring, secure the anchor line to the bow, never to the stern.
If you should capsize or swamp your boat, or if you have fallen overboard and can't get back in, stay with the boat if possible. Your swamped boat is easier to see and will signal that you are in trouble. Also signal for help using other devices available (visual distress signals, whistle, mirror).
If you made the mistake of not wearing a life jacket, find one and put it on. If you can't put it on, hold onto it. Have your passengers do the same. Take a head count. Reach, throw, row, or go, if needed. If your boat remains afloat, try to reboard or climb onto it in order to get as much of your body out of the cold water as possible. Treading water will cause you to lose body heat faster, so try to use the boat for support. If your boat sinks or floats away, don't panic.
If you are wearing a life jacket, make sure that it is securely fastened, remain calm, and wait for help. If you aren't wearing a life jacket, look for one floating in the water or other floating items (coolers, oars or paddles, decoys, etc.) to help you stay afloat. Do your best to help your passengers find something to help them float and stay together. If you have nothing to support you, you may have to tread water or simply float. In cold water, float rather than tread to reduce hypothermia.
If someone on your boat falls overboard, you need to immediately:
Reduce speed and toss the victim a PFD, preferably a throwable type, unless you know he or she is already wearing a life jacket. Turn your boat around and slowly pull alongside the victim, approaching the victim from downwind or into the current, whichever is stronger. Stop the engine. Pull the victim on board over the stern, keeping the weight in the boat balanced, especially in small boats.
Small craft boaters need to be careful to avoid falling overboard. Falling overboard and drowning is the major cause of fatalities for small boats. To prevent falling overboard:
Keep centered in the boat with your center of gravity low in the boat. Always keep your shoulders between the gunwales. If possible, don't move about the boat. If you must move, maintain three points of contact. That is, keep both hands and one foot or both feet and one hand in contact with the boat at all times. Evenly distribute and balance the weight of persons and gear within the boat, keeping most of the weight low. It is extremely important not to overload a small boat.
Sitting on the gunwale, bow, seat backs, or any other area not designed for seating is risky behavior and can result in falling overboard. It is illegal in many states.
Boating Accidents and the Law
An operator involved in a boating accident must:
Stop their vessel immediately at the scene of the accident and give assistance to anyone injured in the accident and give their name, address, and identifying number of their vessel as well as the names and addresses of passengers to the other vessel’s operator or passengers.
Witnesses to a boating accident must give their names and addresses to the operators, passengers, or injured person.
The operator or owner of a vessel involved in an accident must file a written report with your State Marine Board if:
A person dies, disappears, or is injured and receives medical treatment or damage to property exceeds $2,000.
Reports of accidents involving only property damage must be made within 10 days of the accident. However, you must file an accident report within 48 hours in cases involving a death, disappearance, or injury.
Passengers are responsible for reporting the accident if the operator is physically incapable of doing so.
Stop their vessel immediately at the scene of the accident and give assistance to anyone injured in the accident and give their name, address, and identifying number of their vessel as well as the names and addresses of passengers to the other vessel’s operator or passengers.
Witnesses to a boating accident must give their names and addresses to the operators, passengers, or injured person.
The operator or owner of a vessel involved in an accident must file a written report with your State Marine Board if:
A person dies, disappears, or is injured and receives medical treatment or damage to property exceeds $2,000.
Reports of accidents involving only property damage must be made within 10 days of the accident. However, you must file an accident report within 48 hours in cases involving a death, disappearance, or injury.
Passengers are responsible for reporting the accident if the operator is physically incapable of doing so.
Requirements for Personal Watercraft (PWC)
Everyone on board a PWC must wear a U.S. Coast Guard approved Type I, II, or III PFD. Inflatable PFDs are not acceptable on PWCs. It is illegal to operate a PWC under the age of 16 unless accompanied by a person of age 18 or older who holds a Boater Education Card.
Persons under age 18 may not rent a PWC.
An operator of a PWC equipped with a lanyard-type ignition safety switch must attach the lanyard to his or her person, clothing, or PFD.
PWCs must be muffled effectively and also must display the required navigation lights if operated between sunset and sunrise.
PWCs have the following speed restrictions:
Slow to 10 mph when you are approaching within 100 feet of another powerboat or sailboat underway.
Slow to "slow, no wake speed" (maximum 5 mph) when within: 100 feet of any anchored vessel or non-motorized craft.
200 feet of a shoreline of a lake, bay, or reservoir (safe take-offs and landings are excepted)
200 feet of a swimmer, a surfer, a shoreline angler, or a diver-down flag.
200 feet of a dock, launch ramp, marina, mooring area, floating home, boathouse, pier, or swim float.
Do not operate PWCs within 200 feet behind a person being towed on water skis or other similar devices.
PWCs must be operated in a reasonable and prudent manner. It is illegal to:
Weave your PWC through congested waterway traffic.
Jump the wake of another vessel unreasonably close to that vessel or when its operator’s vision is obstructed.
It is illegal to operate a PWC if under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
It is illegal to chase, harass, or disturb wildlife, birds, or marine mammals.
In addition to adhering to laws as they apply to all vessels, operators towing a person(s) on water skis or a similar device must obey these laws.
It is illegal for vessels to tow persons on water skis or any device of this type between sunset and sunrise.
Children 12 years old and younger being towed must wear a U.S. Coast Guard approved Type I, II, or III PFD.
Vessels towing a person(s) on water skis or a similar device must carry on board a red or orange skier-down flag and display it whenever the skier is in the water.
The operator of the towing vessel and the skier must not operate in a manner that endangers the safety of persons or property. Also, they must not operate while under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
Every vessel towing a person on water skis or a similar device must have a person, in addition to the operator, continuously observing the towed person.
If the towing vessel is a PWC, the PWC must be rated for at least three people, the operator, the observer, and the retrieved skier.
It is illegal to tow a person(s) holding onto any portion of the boat aft of the transom (including a step, ladder, platform, or deck) while underway.
If towing a skier with a personal watercraft, the PWC must be rated for at least three people, the operator, the observer, and the skier.
Persons under age 18 may not rent a PWC.
An operator of a PWC equipped with a lanyard-type ignition safety switch must attach the lanyard to his or her person, clothing, or PFD.
PWCs must be muffled effectively and also must display the required navigation lights if operated between sunset and sunrise.
PWCs have the following speed restrictions:
Slow to 10 mph when you are approaching within 100 feet of another powerboat or sailboat underway.
Slow to "slow, no wake speed" (maximum 5 mph) when within: 100 feet of any anchored vessel or non-motorized craft.
200 feet of a shoreline of a lake, bay, or reservoir (safe take-offs and landings are excepted)
200 feet of a swimmer, a surfer, a shoreline angler, or a diver-down flag.
200 feet of a dock, launch ramp, marina, mooring area, floating home, boathouse, pier, or swim float.
Do not operate PWCs within 200 feet behind a person being towed on water skis or other similar devices.
PWCs must be operated in a reasonable and prudent manner. It is illegal to:
Weave your PWC through congested waterway traffic.
Jump the wake of another vessel unreasonably close to that vessel or when its operator’s vision is obstructed.
It is illegal to operate a PWC if under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
It is illegal to chase, harass, or disturb wildlife, birds, or marine mammals.
In addition to adhering to laws as they apply to all vessels, operators towing a person(s) on water skis or a similar device must obey these laws.
It is illegal for vessels to tow persons on water skis or any device of this type between sunset and sunrise.
Children 12 years old and younger being towed must wear a U.S. Coast Guard approved Type I, II, or III PFD.
Vessels towing a person(s) on water skis or a similar device must carry on board a red or orange skier-down flag and display it whenever the skier is in the water.
The operator of the towing vessel and the skier must not operate in a manner that endangers the safety of persons or property. Also, they must not operate while under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
Every vessel towing a person on water skis or a similar device must have a person, in addition to the operator, continuously observing the towed person.
If the towing vessel is a PWC, the PWC must be rated for at least three people, the operator, the observer, and the retrieved skier.
It is illegal to tow a person(s) holding onto any portion of the boat aft of the transom (including a step, ladder, platform, or deck) while underway.
If towing a skier with a personal watercraft, the PWC must be rated for at least three people, the operator, the observer, and the skier.
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